A visit to the dunes at Sossusvlei in Namibia is a must on any journey with Ultimate Safaris. Located deep in the heart of the Namib Naukluft Park, the towering crimson dunes and stark white pans are a photographer’s dream and a hiker’s challenge. The day’s adventure begins with a very early departure from camp so that travelers can see the changing light on the stunning landscape and explore the dunes before the temperature gets too high. In the winters, the mornings can be quite cold, but it’s not long before the African sun warms things up.
On last year’s Kusini/Ultimate Safaris FAM in November, the group, led by extraordinary guide Johann, set off from Ultimate’s Camp Sossus before daybreak and made our way through the park, gaping at the stunning scenery. Oryx dotted the dunes, while shadows and light played on the surface of the sand making for beautiful patterns to capture on camera.
We collectively decided to climb Big Daddy, one of the largest dunes in the Namib Desert. It’s famous for many reasons, not least of which are its height, its 360 degree views and its views of the oh-so-photogenic Deadvlei pan. The climb is no easy feat. If you’ve climbed sand dunes before, you know it’s a ‘climb one step up, slide two steps back’ endeavor. Tad agrees with me – he wrote this about his March 2022 climb…
“The hike up Big Daddy is long and hard. Hiking in sand is a ‘one step forward, two steps back’ endeavor. Add to that the sheer size of the dune and you’re in for a fitness test.”
While Tad’s FAM started with the full group trekking up the dune, only two finished (you can bail out and run down to Deadvlei from most anywhere). Our group was particularly determined, and every one of us made it to the summit – a hugely gratifying experience! It takes about an hour and a half to get up (which you’ll almost assuredly do barefoot in the soft sand – shoes just hinder you), and the views while climbing are stunning – especially from the top. There is an awesome view of Deadvlei from the highest point, you can also see White Mountain and get 360-degree views of the sand sea – it’s well worth the effort. Summiting Big Daddy has that same awesome feeling of hitting the top of any iconic peak – it’s awesome!
The summit is only half the fun – getting down is quite the adventure as well. Many people run – it takes a second to get your rhythm on the downhill without spilling over to land on your face – but when you find the right pace, it’s quite exhilarating. One of our party decided to flip and handspring off the summit – fun not just for us but other climbers on the dune as well.
At the bottom, we dumped the sand out of our shoes then walked the length of Deadvlei, doing our best to capture the dramatic dead trees against the stark landscape. After refilling our water bottles at the car, Johann drove us to a spot not far away where we were able to enjoy a lavish Champagne breakfast under the shade of a tree as a reward for our efforts. The jackal lingering nearby was an extra treat.
Climbing Big Daddy isn’t for everyone – it is without a doubt a physical challenge and can sometimes draw crowds. There are other dunes that can be climbed – I climbed Big Mamma on my first visit twelve years ago, and we were the only visitors on the dune that day. It’s definitely easier than Big Daddy yet still feels very rewarding. You can also bail part way up Big Daddy if the climb is too much and you’ll still get to enjoy some of the run down. And one needn’t climb a dune at all to enjoy Sossusvlei – its beauty is easily and thoroughly enjoyed from the window of one of Ultimate’s custom safari vehicles.
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