Norman Carr Safaris Zambia Trip Report

South Luangwa National Park, Zambia
October 2013
By Tad Bradley

October 16: Lusaka arrival

“No matter how you slice it, flying to Africa from Seattle takes at least 24-30 hours.” That’s my standard line when friends, family or colleagues ask about flying time to Africa from my home on the West Coast. And while yes, there’s no question it’s a LONG trip, I actually look forward to the time spent on the plane, reading, writing or watching (multiple) movies. And of course, the free wine and beer is a nice perk for an American flyer!

My flights to Lusaka via JNB were a breeze this time, without any issues (thanks SAA!). I was slightly concerned about my relatively short 2 hour connection in JNB but I flew through the international transfer desk and security and onto my evening SAA flight to Lusaka with time to spare.

Flight info for pax: Unfortunately British recently canceled their 3x weekly direct service from Heathrow to Lusaka. The best options are now to fly either via Dubai on Emirates or via JNB on SAA, KLM/Delta or Lufthansa. SAA has at least 5 flights at day between JNB and LUN. The benefit of the Emirates schedule is it eliminates the need for a forced overnight in Lusaka, as was required with the 8:30am departure of the BA London flight. The Emirates flight arrives into LUN at 2:30pm, allowing connection on the 4:20 ProFlight connection to Mfuwe in time for sundowners! And the return flight departs for Dubai at 9:40pm, allowing for a full day on safari on your day of departure.

However, I had a forced overnight in Lusaka, arriving at 9pm. Once through customs, I was met by a Norman Carr Safaris representative and escorted to a waiting shuttle van for my transfer to the Southern Sun. The hotel is located 27 KM from the airport or 30-60 minutes depending on traffic. For an overnight, it’s a great option. The standard rooms are small but clean and comfortable and include free wifi (relatively reliable). Everything you’d expect from a solid international chain. Airport transfers are included in the rate but make sure to check the times of the shuttles! I made that mistake, assuming that they ran every half hour-ish and arrived in the lobby just before 7am for the short ride to the airport. Whoops, the shuttle had left at 6:30 and the next wasn’t leaving until 8am, which wouldn’t work with my 8:30am flight to Mfuwe. That meant a 200 kwacha ($35) taxi ride. Conveniently, the hotel has an ATM located onsite and I was on my way.

October 17: Mfuwe and Kapani Lodge

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Mfuwe is the gateway to South Luangwa National Park. The hour flight from Lusaka doesn’t offer great views until the descent and approach over the serpentine Luangwa River and the Muchinga Escarpment. After disembarking and walking into the Mfuwe terminal, more than likely you will encounter quite the scrum of safari operators meeting pax in the small arrivals hall – just look for the right sign! I spotted the classic NCS logo attached to broad smile of one of the company guides, John. With all the arriving NCS pax collected, we set off for Kapani passing through a number of small villages, abuzz with activity; children in uniform walking to school, vendors selling their wares roadside and mothers hanging their washing out to dry in the mid-day sun. I inhaled that unmistakable fragrance of Africa – smoky, earthy and sweet – and smiled. Ahh, it was good to be back! And for the second time this year! How lucky are we to be in this business?

Upon arrival at Kapani Lodge, manager Mario and his team were waiting with big smiles, cold towels and a much needed welcome drink. Kapani is a mid-range, comfortable family-friendly lodge located on an elevated site overlooking a large oxbow lagoon, just outside the National Park. Norman knew this was the highest ground in the Mfuwe area and that it would be safe from the seasonal flooding of the Luangwa River. It was the final camp he built, completed in 1986 and his personal home until his death in 1997. Today Kapani serves as the NCS headquarters, the home base for the Rivers and Rainbows green season safari and the jumping off-point for the more remote bush camps located deep in the South Luangwa National Park.

Kapani isn’t the most luxurious South Luangwa property (see the new NCS Chinzombo Camp below!) but it has a rustic, authentically African elegance to it. There are eight standard brick and thatch rooms, connected in duplex style, each with their own entry and small patio, which makes for a great family option or for friends traveling together. The ninth room is the spacious Lagoon House which is designed specifically for families to share (sleeps 4-5), and is located next to the pool, another great bonus for kids!

The chalets are connected by meandering pathways through the kapinga grass and shaded by a grove of mopane trees. They were built with the warm Luangwa weather in mind, with high ceilings, overhead fans, polished concrete floors and large screened windows. Each has a small sitting area with a bar fridge, tea/coffee station, comfy lounge chairs and an ensuite bath with shower and double vanity. The Lagoon House also has a classic clawfoot bathtub, and is closest to the edge of the lagoon, offering nice views from the deck and sitting area in front. The other chalets are set back from the lagoon with a bit less of a view.

In the center of the grounds is the cozy library/map room complete with overstuffed couches, a fireplace, antique maps from the early days in Luangwa and a chess board. It’s a great place to flop with a book during a warm afternoon siesta or to curl up next to the fire with an aperitif on a cool winter evening. Meals are typically served alfresco on the large deck above the Kapani Lagoon (there is a covered portion for the green season) but private dinners can be arranged in unique, secluded areas on the property.

There’s a small curio/gift shop offering local crafts, fabrics (mostly the ubiquitous but beautiful Tribal Textiles), books and NCS-branded clothes/hats. The secluded and enclosed swimming pool is quite large, especially for a safari camp and is a great family feature.

The safari experience from Kapani is more focused on vehicle safaris as most pax typically do their walking based from one of the bushcamps (though walking can be done from Kapani). As Kapani is located just outside the park, vehicles must cross either at the main Mfuwe gate or at a pontoon bridge near the lodge which operates most of the year depending on water levels in the Luangwa River. Either way, it’s only a short 5-10 minute drive through the game management area, which is also full of game itself. Game drives are generally good, though because the central sector of the park is home to the greatest density of camps and lodges, it can be a bit crowded. But crowded for South Luangwa is a far cry from the lines of 10-15 mini-buses around one animal in the Masai Mara. Far, far from it. Park regulations only allow three or four vehicles per sighting and the guides do a pretty good job of keeping proper separation. I was only really bothered by other vehicles at night, where the spotlights are a clear giveaway that you’re not the only Landy looking for that lion or leopard! Traffic in this area is only a slight concern during the high season between July and October. In the green season, due to water levels, safaris are limited to the all-weather roads in the central sector anyway and traffic is minimal.

October 18: Nsolo and Luwi Bush Camps

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After one night at Kapani, I set off to explore the more remote bushcamps of Nsolo and Luwi, both located miles from any other camps along the seasonally dry Luwi River. The drive from Kapani is usually done as a morning game viewing activity with guests getting into camp around 10.30am in time for lunch.

Arriving at Nsolo, I knew instantly that this was my kind of safari camp! Set on one of the few remaining Luwi River waterholes, Nsolo is a very intimate bushcamp with four raised grass, reed and thatch chalets with wonderful open air en-suite baths and private verandahs perfect for watching the hippos wallow and the elephants drink. The rooms are solar powered and all-day hot water comes from a traditional wood-fired boiler. The chalets typify rustic luxury or very well could be the definition of that new travel catchphrase, “barefoot luxury.” Either way, I was in love. The chalet interiors are simple, with an incredibly comfortable queen sized bed with canopied mozzie net, two bed side tables, a small decorative bench, wooden chest for luggage and a lounge area with two wicker chairs and a small cocktail table. Each chalet is unique in its layout, especially the private decks and bathrooms. All have great views of the (dry) river and the bush.

Room One is the smallest and closest to the staff quarters, so it’s recommended for single travellers ($180 sgl supplement July – Oct; no supplement in shoulder season, May and Nov). Room Four has the best view of the waterhole and is the most private, making it good for honeymooners. Room Two and Three both have private decks that wrap around large trees, providing wonderful natural shade and a Robinson Crusoe feel! The bathrooms are a highlight, open to the African sky and with views overlooking the Luwi River. Nothing like watching an elephant bathe in the waterhole as you wash off the safari dust in your outdoor shower! The little touches are what make it so special – the soap and shampoo bottles sit on a bed of river rock on a shelf made from a gnarled tree trunk!

The thatched open-sided main lounge has a spacious dining area and comfortable sitting area, perfect for flopping with a book during the afternoon siesta. It faces the river and offers a great vantage point for watching the variety of game visiting the waterhole for a drink. One afternoon during brunch, we watched a group of zebra gingerly navigate the steep riverbank down to the water, a herd of thirsty elephants slurp and splash, warthogs kneeing to drink and helmeted guinea fowl awkwardly flapping down from a riverside tree. There is also a small bush bar, a great gathering place for happy hour or for post-dinner drinks.

After settling into my chalet, it was time for brunch served under the shade of the chitenge lounge. I’m continually amazed at what the chefs can whip up in a bush kitchen! Delicious quiche, crisp salads, freshly baked bread and a variety of delicious chutneys. So tasty! I was joined for brunch by Innocent Tembo, Nsolo’s lead guide and manager; Tatum, the fantastic camp hostess from Belgium; and two NCS safari veterans, Dave and Jeanette, a wonderful British couple visiting Luangwa for their 6th time (or more). Innocent had recently returned from Canada after participating in the NCS guide exchange program with the Knight Inlet Lodge in British Columbia. As a resident of the Cascadia region, I loved hearing his stories about seeing snowcapped mountains, whales breaching and massive evergreen trees, all for the first time! You can read more about his BC experience on our blog here. As we enjoyed our lunch, we watched the bushbucks enjoying their own meal, munching on the fallen sausage tree flowers outside the lounge.

The afternoon game drive was productive and in such a remote part of the park, we never saw another vehicle. Innocent is a wonderful guide, full of knowledge about the bush, quick with a smile and a gentle soul. He is a prot’g’ of the legendary NCS guide Shaddy Nkhoma, and recently took over management of Nsolo. On our drive we saw eland, Sharpes grysbok, bushbuck, waterbuck, zudu, three beautiful lioness roaming the dry Luwi riverbed, hyena, great eagle owl and a civet.

That evening, we enjoyed dinner under the stars on the Luwi riverbank, listening to the hyena laugh while we sipped our delicious coriander carrot soup – yum!

October 19: Nsolo Bush Camp and “Return to the Wild” sleepout!

I’ll never get tired of waking up in the comfort of a cozy bed to the sounds of the bush coming to life with the dawn of the day. After brushing my teeth and a quick splash of water on my face, the campfire coffee was calling my name. Breakfast was setup on a milled tree trunk that rests in the crook of two fallen trunks. A spread of fresh fruit, home-made yogurt, cereals and, the cr’me de la cr’me, scrambled eggs and fresh bread toasted over the fire. Sipping strong coffee, we watched the sunrise directly over the waterhole. Another beautiful start to an African day.

With just Dave and me in tow, Innocent and scout led us out of camp past the waterhole and into the bush for our morning walking safari. The sky was hazy due to a nearby brush fire, a reminder that October is the driest time of the year, with very little rain for five months or more. Just across from camp, we climbed the opposite riverbank and found a small herd of zebras staring at us, silhouetted through the hazy morning light.

Often when I tell people who haven’t visited Africa that I love walking safaris, the reaction is “Are you crazy?! Won’t you get eaten?!” And driving safari veterans ask “can you see any big game while on foot?” Clearly misconceptions abound regarding walking in Africa. South Luangwa National Park is the birthplace of the walking safari, which was pioneered by Norman Carr in the 1950’s. Norman like to say “to view the bush from a vehicle is simply to be an observer, but to get out on foot was to become a part of your surroundings.” I’ve found this to be so true. Walking safaris are immersive, sensual and peaceful. In Zambia, an armed wildlife ranger or “scout” leads each walking group, followed by the trained walking guide. In other countries, the walking guide is armed and leads the group alone. Having a walk led by two wildlife experts was conceived by Norman and the 60 year track record of safety speaks to the effectiveness of this approach. Read more about the NCS walking safaris here.

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While certainly vehicle safaris allow one to cover more ground and see a greater volume of game in a 3-4 hour safari, it is only on a walking safari where all your senses are heightened and you can see, hear, smell and feel the bush. You begin to understand the interconnectedness of the flora and the fauna, how each small part plays an important role in the greater ecosystem. Small mysteries of the bush are unlocked and explored; tracks are investigated; and the wide variety of animal poop becomes an unexpected and fascinated learning experience! And while generally speaking, walks are more focused on the little things in the bush, tracking big game on foot is not uncommon and always thrilling.

It was definitely hot this time of year in Luangwa. My previous visit to the park was in July, when the early mornings required long sleeves and even fleece. No such need in October! Before 7am, the temperature was already very warm and climbing with the rising sun. The sharp eyes of Innocent soon spotted a common eland about 100m away, munching away at a small shrub, only its cow-like rump visible. Soon we came across two juvenile male elephant bulls and thanks to favorable winds, we were able to make an approach to within 25m.

We stopped for coffee in a dried up pan with a muddy creek running through it, home to a solitary and very sad looking hippo and a crock, both wallowing in what remained of the once flooded landscape. We stopped for coffee and tea under the shade of a blooming sausage tree. A pump kept some fresh water flowing into a nearby waterhole, attracting a great variety of game – warthogs with new “wartlings,” impala, grysbok, reedbuck, wildebeest, and a pair of crowned crane. We also saw a family of three large grey mongooses, apparently a very rare sighting!

In the afternoon, I made a short visit to Luwi Bushcamp, about 8k from Nsolo. These two camps are often paired together in a walking safari circuit and as they are some of the most remote in the park, you are nearly guaranteed to have the bush to yourself. Luwi is the most simple of all the NCS camps, with four chalets built from reed and thatch, shaded by huge mahogany trees. They are largely dismantled at the end of the season and as such, have very little impact on the environment. The camp was fully booked when I visited during the afternoon siesta so I wasn’t able to see the rooms. NCS on their website describes them as such:

The rooms, which are built each season using natural materials, blend into the bush and are simple yet extremely comfortable with en-suite bathrooms and “all day” hot showers. With the emphasis on the use of natural materials in its construction, this camp is one of the most traditional of all of the Luangwa safari camps but still offers high levels of comfort and service. Currently chalet three is quite close to the main lounge but apparently it may be moved to allow for more privacy. Chalet one is the farthest from the main area and around the corner on the riverbank, making it by far the most private. The main lounge is also a simple affair, with a sandy floor and a bush bar under thatch. It overlooks a floodplain to the Luwi River beyond. Nearby is a permanent hippo and crock filled lagoon, with a hide perfect for sundowners and lazy siestas watching the game come for a drink.

Upon returning to Nsolo, it was time to gear up for our Return to the Wild sleep-out experience! Several weeks before arriving, I emailed Mindy Roberts, NCS Sales and Marketing Director, and sheepishly asked if there was any chance we could do a sleep-out while I was there. Much to my delight, she enthusiastically agreed it would a great idea for me to experience it and an opportunity for marketing team bonding with me, Mindy and Mario, another member of the stellar NCS crew. Yahoo!

NCS offers the Return to the Wild experience for those adventurous souls who want to sleep under the African stars in the spirit of safari pioneers like Norman Carr himself. We departed Nsolo in the late afternoon after tea. I brought along a small day pack with a waterbottle, camera, binoculars and sunscreen. Our extra clothes and toiletries were collected by the camp staff for delivery to the campsite by vehicle. The bush glowed golden in the late afternoon sun. Innocent’s eagle eyes spotted two nesting chicks, camouflaged among the dry bush long the Luwi riverbank. I think he must have noticed their mother acting nervously as we approached because it would be nearly impossible to spot these tiny hatchlings. Well, maybe not for Innocent! It’s these kinds of sightings that make walking safaris so special. The small things that you miss completely while in the vehicle.

Of course, walking safaris can also be about the big, adrenaline-inducing things, like the large herd of elephants we soon encountered. We found ourselves among a large herd, split in two. The wind was in our favor and we were able to approach quite close and observe. It’s always such a thrill to view elephants on foot and from a close distance. We passed through the herd and shortly thereafter Innocent signaled for us to stop. Just in front of us was a warthog den with two hairy ears poking out. Apparently we had surprised Mom before she could dart from the hole and she was staying close to protect her young. Meanwhile Dad warthog was running circles around us trying to distract and draw us away. Another special walking experience! We continued on, leaving Mom to her wartlets and Dad to return to the den.

We crossed a dried up pan and we were back at the Luwi River. We trucked along through the soft sand, our sleep-out spot not far away. With perfect timing, we arrived to the campsite just as the sun began to set. A cooler and chairs were waiting for us and before putting in the work to set up camp, everyone enjoyed sundowners in our riverbed home. On this night, sundowners could really have been called moon-risers, as a stunning full moon appeared on the opposite horizon, glowing bright red in the setting sun.

After sundowners, the guides and scouts began to build the fires that would ring our camp. We helped set up our bedrolls and mozzie nets. A loo tent with a long drop toilet was set up. And soon the chef had a roaring fire going for our Luwi River braai of sizzling steak fillets, pork chops, sausages and chicken breasts, with roasted potatoes and nsima as sides. For dessert, we enjoyed little lemon pots which are like a baked custard. Yum! I also took this opportunity to give Innocent his first taste of true Pacific Northwest salmon, since he hadn’t tried it while visiting BC earlier in the year! I brought gifts of smoked salmon for the NCS staff and decided that I could spare one for Innocent’s overdue tasting. So there, in the middle of the Luwi River, in the heart of South Luangwa NP in Zambia, Innocent tasted salmon for the first, and possibly only, time in his life! And he liked it! There it was, probably the one time smoked salmon from Seattle will ever be served on an NCS sleep-out!

With the campsite ringed by half a dozen roaring fires and a full moon overhead, we sat stargazing and listening to the distant sounds of roaring lions and trumpeting elephants. I imagined what it must have been like to be one of the early African explorers, who could only dream at the comforts that would one day await safari goers. And except for our chef prepared braai and bottles of excellent South African red wine, I imagine that our experience wasn’t that much different from the early African explorers. We slept in very comfortable bedrolls, with a soft mattress, pillow, sheets and warm blankets, covered by a mozzie net, staked down on each corners into the sand. It really wasn’t that far off from a fine four poster bed. Ok, so maybe we had a few more comforts than the true safari pioneers!

The moonlight cast a surreal glow. Several times in the night I awoke and saw the silhouetted figures of the chef and scout patrolling the camps perimeter. I said silent thanks and told myself I needed to personally thank them in the morning for staying awake and keeping us safe.

October 20: Sleepout morning, walk to Kakuli and Mchenja bushcamps

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Dawn arrived. I peered through the protective gauze at the smoldering perimeter fires and our camp coming to life. There is such a fresh and primal feeling when waking up outside, in the wild, no roof overhead. And like on any camping trip, that first cup of hot coffee tastes so good. Breakfast was another treat – a full English breakfast, made over the fire. Wow, what a way to wake up!

We helped to take down our mozzie nets and rolled up our beds and then we headed out of camp, walking to Kakuli, about 12k away. Guests don’t have to walk of course, vehicles can be arranged to whisk them back to a proper hot shower or for a morning game drive, ending back at a bushcamp. A sleep-out can be added to just about any bushcamp stay. Pre-booking this experience is preferred and there is a supplement charged as a bed in a bushcamp is held just in case the wilderness gets too wild and there’s change of heart at the last minute!

Philemon led us on our walk to Kakuli. He’s relatively young but was one of the best NCS guides I had. This tells you a lot about the strong tradition of guide training that Norman instilled in the company and has carried on to today. He was a wealth of interesting information presented in a thoughtful manner, with easy to understand analogies to our modern lives. He compared a civet latrine to the “Google” of the bush as other civet can to search for information – age, sex, health – about particular individuals by smelling their excrement. We walked for about three hours and encountered a herd of 8-10 eland, several giraffe, elephant and fresh caracal prints.

 

In the late morning, we arrived at Kakuli, perched on a high bank overlooking a lagoon and the confluence of the Luwi and the Luangwa Rivers. This elevated position means Kakuli is one of the few true bush camps in South Luangwa to remain open during the Green Season, complimenting Kapani or Chinzombo in the Rivers and Rainbows itinerary. Kakuli has four tented chalets all with views overlooking the Luangwa. The living/bedroom area is about the same in size as Nsolo with very spacious bathrooms, which are covered to keep out the rain during the Green Season (Jan – early April). At this time of year, the grounds of the camp were very dry and there are plans under consideration to plant grass to add some green which would be welcomed during the driest part of the year.

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After a cool welcome drink, I said goodbye to Mario and Mindy and headed off to Mchenja, the last of the four bushcamps I was to visit. Set beneath a beautiful grove of ebony trees, five luxury tents look out over the Luangwa River and a noisy pod of many hippos. Like Kakuli, Mchenja is elevated and used to be the Green Season camp, but it’s on a lower bank of the River and it can be flooded during the Green Season. Hard to imagine in October when the riverbank was 10-15 feet above the water level!

Mchenja’s five luxury canvas and thatched tents are well spaced, providing very private accommodations. Interiors are comfortably elegant, with a divinely comfortable bed, Victorian roll top bathtub with a view of the river and a large outdoor bath and shower. They are bright and airy thanks to the many screened windows around the octagonal tent; large billowing white curtains provide privacy. The central lounge is build around a fallen mchenja (ebony) tree and set back slightly from the riverbank. It has a comfortable seating area/library, bush bar, dining area and a small plunge pool, the only bushcamp with such a feature.

Mchenja is located in a magnificent area of the park with a diverse mix of woodlands, plains, lagoons and river tributaries. Just outside camp is a beautiful lagoon that is often visited by thirsty elephants, plains game and even cats. And in addition the camp’s own beautiful ebony grove, there are several other groves nearby, which during the green season, NCS cruises through them in boats! Amazing to drive through the grove in October and think that in February, I’d be floating!

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Mchenja is near the game-rich Nsefu sector (accessibly only in late season when the river can be crossed) and the both drives and walks in the area are excellent. Simon Phiri is the Mchenja camp manager and senior guide. He has an encyclopedic knowledge of the flora and fauna of the bush. He also has great eyes. On our evening drive, just outside camp he spotted a three month old lion cub, curled up in a bush. Apparently there is a large pride nearby and this young cub is one of three. His brothers were hidden deep in the bowels of a larger bush nearby but this little guy decided to venture farther afield. And how lucky were we for that. His dark spots were clearly visible on his back and he kept calling for his brothers to come out and play. The other highlight of the drive that night was another great sighting by Simon – a large porcupine ambling through the thicket.

October 21 and 22: The incomparable Chinzombo

I arrived across from Chinzombo on the National Park side of the Luangwa River where a boat was waiting to usher me across the shrinking waterway to the new NCS flagship camp. While accessible from the road, guests always arrive to the camp via boat across the Luangwa, adding another level of excitement and exclusivity to the experience. Yet, Chinzombo is still only an hour transfer from Mfuwe Airport.

Set along a sweeping bend in the Luangwa River, Chinzombo’s six villas and central lounge seem to melt into the bush around them. Designed by award winning architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens of North Island and Little Vumbera fame, Chinzombo offers the most luxurious and stylish accommodation in South Luangwa. Upon arrival, in addition to a welcome drink, a complimentary foot massage is available for those whose walking safaris have left their feet aching! (Note: full spa services are available under the leadership and direction of Ari, who ran the North Island spa. An exclusive spa house is under construction but for now all treatments are done in the guest villas).

The Chinzombo central lounge is, quite simply, stunning. But not in the over-the-top, dripping-with-luxury sort of way. Rather it simply looks extraordinarily comfortable and pleasing to the eye. The open air steel framed structure is brought to life by the thoughtful d’cor which melds the modern and the retro. The bar area is the best example of this with photos and mementos of Norman Carr going back to his very early years in the park. It’s both a museum and a shrine, highlighting the deep history and important heritage of the company and its legendary founder.

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This concept of simple luxury is carried throughout the design of the camp. Nowhere does it feel over done or over-decorated. It just works. It is designed in such as a way as to provide maximum comfort for guests while maintaining the experience of the African bush. For example, the sleeping areas are cooled in an ingenious way. A small, ultra-efficient air cooling system attached at the back of the villa pumps cool air into a small tube that then releases it above the bed. Gravity does the rest as the heavier cool air sinks onto the sleepers below. Guests receive the benefit of cooler night’s sleep and can still hear the sounds of the bush!

The six villas are equally as comfortable as the central lounge. They are also incredibly spacious at over 150sq meters (1600 sq feet!). They are also steel framed with grass and canvas walls and simple d’cor using leather, copper chandeliers, reclaimed dark wood and neutral colored linens. Many of these materials are locally sourced and all of it is sustainably harvested, recycled and/or recyclable. Each villa is equipped with wifi (works pretty well) and a huge private viewing deck with pool. The en-suite baths are covered but the entire front of the villas is open air with views toward the river. A large screen is rolled down in the evenings. One of the villas is a family suite featuring two bedrooms and two bathrooms and is over 300sq meters large.

Chinzombo is the home of some of the most senior NCS guides, including award-winning guide Abraham Banda (Zambian Guide of the Year Award, Zambian Tourism Awards and Silver in the Best Guides in the World Awards presented by Wanderlust and Daily Telegraph). I had the great pleasure of embarking on two game drives with Abraham while at Chinzombo. Trained and mentored by Norman Carr, Abraham is one of the best guides I’ve ever had, anywhere in the world. He has that rare ability to anticipate a special experience and then, without verbalizing it, allow the guests to discover it for themselves. As an example of the sixth sense, we were in a vehicle on a high bank overlooking the Luangwa. A large herd of elephants was approaching the vehicle and seemed to hesitate, pausing and smelling the air with their trunks, nervously kicking up dust. As it was late in the afternoon, Abraham believed that they were headed to a path that led down the bank to the river so they could drink. We were blocking their way. He repositioned the vehicle and sure enough, the herd was on their way. We stopped a short distance from the path, with a panoramic view of the river below. He hopped out of the Landy and motioned for me to follow him to the riverbank. Without words, we stood watching these beautiful, massive creatures gingerly navigate the steep path down the bank and into the river, the late afternoon light casting long shadows over these giants as they drank and bathed in the pool below. We also encountered a beautiful female leopard on our morning drive the next day. She was lounging on a large tree branch just above the road. We were able to spend about 5-10 minutes sitting with her before she gracefully descended the tree and disappeared into the thicket next to the river. Sadly, my game drives with Abraham were slightly abbreviated due to my travel schedule and meeting with NCS staff. I hope to be able to spend more time with him on a future visit!

Chinzombo is one of those exceptional properties that has that special, indescribable, something. That feeling of ease, of comfort, of being at home. For luxury clients, Chinzombo is a great way to book-end a stay at the NCS bushcamps. Pax can ease their way into the more remote parts of the bush with a night or two at the beginning of their safari and focus on game drives or visit one of the community projects in the Mfuwe village. Then a stay at one or more of the bushcamps for several nights is a must to experience the thrill of a walking safari complemented by a night drives and dinner under the stars. Finally, returning to Chinzombo, guests complete their Luangwa safari with one or two nights of pampering before heading onward.

After my amazing six days with Norman Carr in South Luangwa, it was time to continue my Zambia exploration in the Lower Zambezi National Park with Chongwe Safaris! Stay tuned for my trip report from this beautiful part of the country. I’ll be detailing the different types of safari experiences on offer, from game drives and walks to canoeing and tiger fishing; the three unique and exceptional properties Chongwe has to offer just about any safari-goer’s style and budget; and the options for combining these two fantastic yet very different safari destinations!